Challah is so intrinsically a part of Jewish cuisine that it is no surprise that there are a multitude of questions regarding the nature of challah within the context of Jewish law. One of those questions is whether we should make challah with or without eggs. In the past—and in some Chassidic as well as Sephardic communities until this day—this constitutes a question not of taste or dietary preference but rather of Jewish law. Some say that egg challah isn’t actually bread at all but rather it is cake. Therefore, the question arises that one may not be fulfilling the mitzvah (command) of saying a blessing on bread at one’s Shabbat table if one’s challah is more akin to cake than it is to bread.

Despite my interest in the Jewish law aspect of water versus egg challah, I started trialling water challah recipes because more vegans are joining us for Shabbat meals, and offering a challah without eggs is something I often have to do. On top of that, my family loves water challah, so I am constantly switching between egg challah and water challah.

All that said, this recipe—and indeed all water challah recipes—seem to require more kneading time. Without the extra protein provided from the eggs, it’s a bit harder to build up gluten in the dough.

This recipe is based on the ‘secret recipe’ provided by the Viznitz bakery in Bnei Brak, who make the most delicious water challah and have no issue sharing their secret recipe. They feel that without their equipment and ovens that date back to the 1950s, we couldn’t possibly recreate their challah exactly.

Though their recipe calls for margarine, I have swapped it for vegetable oil, but either works well.

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 liter water, lukewarm
• 60 grams dry active yeast
• 300 grams (1 1/2 cups) granulated sugar
• 60 ml (1/4 cup) vegetable oil
• 2 kilo (4.4 lbs) white bread flour
• 30 grams table salt
• 15 grams baking powder

METHOD:

1. Place the flour in a very large mixing bowl.
2. Mix the wet ingredients: In a measuring jug or medium bowl, mix together the lukewarm water with the yeast, then add the sugar and the oil.
3. Combine: In a large bowl mix the flour add the salt and baking powder to the bowl, and pour in the yeast mixture.
4. Form the dough: Begin kneading the mixture together. You may need to add more water, one tablespoon at a time, until all the flour is incorporated into a rough dough.
5. Knead: Transfer the dough onto a floured work surface and knead, adding a bit of flour if needed to keep it from sticking. Knead for up to 20 minutes by hand, until you have a dough that is smooth and elastic.
6. First rise: Form the dough into a ball and place it in a lightly oiled bowl. Cover and let rise for 45 minutes in a 45°C (113°F) oven, or about 1½ hours at room temperature, until nearly doubled in size. (You can let the dough rise for up to 2–3 hours in a warm place, or overnight in the fridge for more flavour.)
7. Separate challah: Separate a portion of dough and make the blessing over challah.
8. Divide and rest: Divide the dough into as many balls as strands needed to braid the loaves. Let rest, lightly covered, for 5–20 minutes before rolling.
9. Shape the strands: With a rolling pin or your fingers, flatten a ball of dough, roll it onto itself, and then shape into a strand slightly tapered at the ends.
10. Braid: Braid the challah and place it on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
11. Second rise: Let the braided loaves rise for 30–60 minutes, or until puffed. Press the dough lightly with a finger—if the indentation fills in slowly by half, it’s ready.
12. Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F).
13. Brush and garnish: Just before baking, gently brush the challahs with lukewarm water or maple syrup, or dust lightly with flour. Sprinkle with sesame or poppy seeds, if using.
14. Bake: Bake for 30–35 minutes. Check for doneness using an instant-read thermometer—the internal temperature should be just above 90°C (195°F).
15. Cool: Remove from baking sheet and cool completely on a wire rack.

MAKE AHEAD:

Challahs can be frozen for up to a month. Make sure they are completely cooled, then wrap tightly in aluminium foil and place in an airtight plastic bag before freezing.